You can read it via pdf on Windows with Acrobat at https://acrobat.com/#d=EqQRsSUF4o4MDB59MzW90g
Alternatively, if using Mac, iPad etc then can view via Evernote at http://t.co/QXbmeLLG
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Drinking By Numbers
My article Drinking By Numbers has just been published in Appetite magazine in Singapore
You can read it via pdf on Windows with Acrobat at https://acrobat.com/#d=EqQRsSUF4o4MDB59MzW90g
Alternatively, if using Mac, iPad etc then can view via Evernote at http://t.co/QXbmeLLG
You can read it via pdf on Windows with Acrobat at https://acrobat.com/#d=EqQRsSUF4o4MDB59MzW90g
Alternatively, if using Mac, iPad etc then can view via Evernote at http://t.co/QXbmeLLG
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Tip Top - The Puff Daddy
While searching for a plastic Xmas tree to transform Singapore's equatorial climate into a cool Alpine forest, I happened upon Tip Top - The Puff Factory, in Plaza Singapura. Being English, I'm a bit of a curry puff fan; it combines two of England's national dishes into one - the crimped pastry case of a Cornish Pasty and the spicy warmth of an English curry. Tip Top goes a step further by chucking a hard boiled egg in there for good measure.
The puff is crisp yet yielding in texture, with a filling that is dense and moreish. The curry is deep hued and perfectly seasoned with the egg-citement of it's additional surprise ingredient. Some commentators have noted that the prices have gone up recently, while the size has diminished, but in my mind these are certainly the best Curry Puffs I've tasted in Singapore.
The puff is crisp yet yielding in texture, with a filling that is dense and moreish. The curry is deep hued and perfectly seasoned with the egg-citement of it's additional surprise ingredient. Some commentators have noted that the prices have gone up recently, while the size has diminished, but in my mind these are certainly the best Curry Puffs I've tasted in Singapore.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
No Senso
When the search for great food starts to feel like climbing Everest, you need a 'Food Sherpa' who's going to get you to the top of the gastronomic mountain. You need a guide; a waiter who knows the menu back to front. What you do not need is some kind of 'yes man' servant who gives the impression of lightening your load, yet allows you to fluff the directions, ending with you both perishing in a culinary wasteland...
Eating out should be an adventure. I like to be whisked away for few of hours, to a faraway place where the food, atmosphere and service seamlessly interact. Service should add to the illusion rather than detract from it. Constant re-filling of water/wine, cutlery fiddling and napkin straightening, bordering on OCD, can be seen as 'attentive' - or just plain annoying.
Good service for me is a smile, and, yes, an opinion. I want a bit of passion, not a fawning “whatever Sir desires” while I try to choose one of the eight dishes I have narrowed the menu down to. Even in 2 and 3 Michelin star restaurants you get a smile and an opinion – it's not all starch and stuffiness. Non-committal just gets my (mountain) goat.
So this is what goes through my head as I sit wincing to the soundtrack of waiters clattering my cutlery, cutting the atmosphere of Club Street's up-market Italian restaurant, Senso, like a pick axe.
Senso's opulent menu bulges with Lobsters, truffles, Barolos and Brunellos, but all I want is something a little more 'rustic'. I order the Homemade Ravioli stuffed with braised Veal shank, served with Porcini Mushrooms sauce ($26), while my dining partners get into the Lobster and truffles with Homemade Taglierini Pasta with Boston Lobster and fresh Basil ($32) and Homemade Fettuccine Pasta in Butter sauce with Italian Summer Black Truffle ($ 30).
I know the ravioli is homemade because, sadly, the pasta is too thick. It is less of a fluffy pillow than a sack made of window putty, but the sauce and filling are tasty nonetheless. The Lobster and truffle choices get a reluctant thumbs up from my table guests – it seems the non-committal response is rubbing off.
The luxurious truffle seems to permeate every corner of the menu from the fettuccine starter to the fillet beef main with it's black truffle sauce, Filetto di Manzo Australiano con salsa al tartufo nero, verdurine e Gnocchi alla Romana ($38). Over-truffling your menu, like over-attentive service, is just over-compensating as far as I'm concerned. The pretentiousness hides the sad truth that the food just isn't good enough.
I do get a glimpse of some personality from two of the waiters as they arrive with my main of Traditional Veal Ossoboccu with Lemon 'Gremolata' on Rosemary Polenta Mousse ($38). One of the guys hides the individual pot of ossobucco while the other wishes me “buon appetito” with my polenta. As I'm about to question the whereabouts of my slow-cooked veal the little joker produces the pot from behind his back with a chuckle. The joke would have been funny it it weren't for the dried up piece of veal that I'm served that has the consistency of a hiking boot.
Thursday, November 10, 2011
James Martin - Dish Of The Day
Heartthrob chef and fulltime Yorkshireman James Martin from BBC Lifestyle was in Singapore recently for a food and wine event that was less about food and wine and more of a battle of who out of the female ex-pat crowd fancied James the most.
James seemed to be used to the attention but even he appeared uneasy at audience questions that included 'James, will you marry me?' and 'James, can you fertislise my eggs please?' At least no one asked him to get out his meat and 2 veg...
 |
| StarHugs |
Although James' food was actually rather tasty, neither the home crowd of Singaporeans nor the expat contingent were eating anything. While the ex-pats were lustily necking back the wine, the Singaporean girls were busy watching their weight and staring open-mouthed at the sight of half-cut Brits launching themselves at James.
 |
| James - I wanted your plums... |
The food was matched with wines from Beringer, a company that obviously had a pretty good idea of the crowd they were catering to. Lashings of sparkling White Zin were gulped down by the waiting throng who were taken by the comforting flavours of what tasted like strawberry cordial with bubbles.
With the Asian-influenced risotto of crab and chili, Beringer's Ambassador had matched an oaky, smoky Beringer Founder's Estate Chardonnay, a marriage that was the most welcome of the evening. Notably, even the bawdiest of Brits tucked into the food and resisted the urge to blurt out any crab-related jokes.
The least adventurous of the food and wine pairings was the Beringer Founder's Estate Cabernet Sauvignon with Slow Roast Beef and Wild Mushroom with Smoked garlic pommes puree, which seemed more of a palate cleanser than a food match. While the updated Brit beef classic with it's Gallic twang showed flair, the wine lacked real personality with it's pedestrian blackcurrant flavours and smooth, yet bitter finish.
Ironically the dusted-strawberry sweetness of the sparkling zin was not misplaced as a match for the 3,000 calorie White Chocolate, Whisky and Croissant Butter Pudding with vanilla ice-cream and a second pudd, Caramelized Lemon Tart with Crème Fraiche. To his credit, James held back any compulsion to make an amusing reference to 'tarts' that might have ended the cash-cow that is his live food circuit – he knows which side his bread and butter pudding is buttered on...
However, he did manage to slip one in there - a joke of course - about Balsamic vinegar, likening it to an older women. Apparently, as it ages it 'gets more expensive and thicker'! Brilliant! The crowd seemed too inebriated or mesmerized by James' cheeky yorkshire brogue to care.
 |
| I made the effort - long trousers |
As the ladies stumbled off into the night I thought it a shame that it may have been a wasted opportunity to try James' food at it's best, and also to sample some higher-end Beringer wines that were in their portfolio. I'm sure I was the only one – everyone else seemed to be having a whale of a time regardless! The only dish they were interested in was James...
Check out the photos from Starhub right here:
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Sky High Price For 1811 Château d'Yquem
The world's most expensive white wine will reside in Asia for the next 6 years, until it is opened and drunk at a special meal to celebrate the buyer's 50th anniversary in the wine business.
Christian Vanneque, former head sommelier at the Michelin starred La Tour d'Argent restaurant in Paris, bought the wine for £75,000 ($150,000) last week at London's Ritz hotel, dropping by Raffles, Singapore on Thursday, with the 1811 vintageChâteau d'Yquem in tow.
Pint-sized Christian posed for photographs with the 75 cl bottle and quipped that he was attracted to a wine made during Napoleon's reign because they both shared a lack of height. In reality it was the wine's stature amongst peers that persuaded Christian to part with the equivalent of a 75 night stay in the Ritz's Trafalgar Suite.
The 1811 is considered by some to be the best ever vintage of Château d'Yquem, a wine dubbed 'liquid gold' even in less iconic years due to it's price, unique balance of sweetness and acidity, and it's potential for longevity.
It hails from the year of Flaugergues' famous comet, an event documented in art and fiction by Blake and Tolstoy, and seen as a portent of Napoleon's invasion of Russia and the war of 1812.
'Comet Vintages' also appear to provide excellent conditions for wine production, with the 1811 vintage marking a reversal of fortune for the regions of Bordeaux, Cognac and Champagne, that were previously blighted by a run of not-so-stellar vintages.
Robert Parker was star stuck by the vintage when he was asked to rate one of the few remaining bottles of the 1811 vintage in 1996. He gave the wine a perfect 100 point score, remarking that the flavour was like 'liquified crème brulee'.
Before Christian gets to see if Parker's assessment is right, the bottle will find a home in the ex-sommelier's SIP Sunset Grill in Bali. It will be protected in an air-conditioned, bullet proof case until it finds it's final resting place on the table of La Tour d'Argent at a family meal, 6 years from now.
Let's hope he is over the moon when he opens the world-record-breaking wine, and that it provides the perfect finish to this celebratory meal and his lifetime in the wine business.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Halliday Destination
Appreciating wine is not about ticking off lists of famous or expensive wines just to say you've tried them. In the same way, going on holiday shouldn't be about ticking off the places you've been just to say you've been there. Both are as much about the journey as they are about the destination...
I was at The World Gourmet Summit in Sentosa last week for a tutored Shiraz tasting with James Halliday and guests Lisa Perotti-Brown MW and Dr N K Yong. My destination wine was going to be Penfolds Grange (and boy, was it good). But along the way I was treated to some wine discoveries that made the journey just as sweet.
Shiraz has become an icon of modern winemaking, grown in all 62 of Australia's wine making regions. Although relatively low-yielding, it is an adaptable grape that survives in many different vine growing environments.
Hunter Valley, or “the umbilical cord of Sydney”, as Halliday likes to call it, is at the hot end of the scale for a fine wine producing area. For a long time the shiraz from this area was “undiscovered and undervalued”, he says , but the “recent awakening of Tyrrell's to the age of their vines” has lead fellow winemakers to follow suit, and collectively “take the game by the throat”. The 2007 Tyrrell's Vat 9 Hunter Shiraz is a great example of old vine Shiraz, made from vines with an average age of 80 years.
Hunter Valley, like the other winemaking areas represented today, has never been affected by the phylloxera louse. It is an important point to note as these vines are ungrafted, and grown on their own roots. This is extremely rare in the world of winemaking; only a few countires and viticultural areas can lay claim to this. All others have vines that are grafted on to American root stock to protect them from the louse. Ungrafted vines have a longer lifespan and can lead to deep concentrated flavours in the grapes due to naturally lowering yields.
It maybe surprising, but this, and many of the other top wines here, are sealed with a screw cap. Halliday is a proponent of screw cap technology and would choose screw cap over cork for all wines, whether they are meant for drinking young, or for ageing. It is a controversial subject, he says; an ongoing 'topic of discussion' within the wine industry. By way of example he refers to two of the Penfolds wines tasting today.
Penfolds Grange uses cork whereas Penfolds RWT has a screw cap: is this just because of consumer image and the “perception of quality” a cork brings to a wine? Halliday remarks that he would be willing to pay more for a Grange with a screw cap closure!
However, the 2005 Henschke Hill of Grace is an example of a super-premium wine that uses screw cap as a closure: a rare sight indeed at it's price point. Halliday hopes this is the way forward for all wines, and indeed it doesn't seem to have affected it's popularity.
The Hill of Grace comes from Eden Valley, just next to Barossa. It is second in line to the Shiraz throne, behind 2004 Penfolds Grange. Comparisons cannot really be made between the two as they are made in two very distinct styles.
Hill of Grace was one of the first single vineyard sites to be made famous in Australia. Halliday states that it's a single vineyard wine using “a whole mosaic of different blocks”. Halliday has tasted the grapes, juice and fermented grape juice of the different blocks within Hill of Grace and can report that the characters are “significantly different”.The individual blocks are selected for the wine depending on the character of the vintage.
Penfolds Grange is a much more intense style of wine, but according to Halliday, it “shows class through it's back palate and finish”.It is not a single vineyard wine, but a multi-region wine. However the complex blending involved is not dissimilar to the assembly of Hill of Grace's vineyard blocks of grapes.
They use a method that is unique to Penfolds to maximise fruit flavour and give longevity to the wine. They add tannins derived from powdered grape tannin for balance and structure and so exercise complete control of the ageing potential. Sounds strange, but then again, Penfolds are always at the forefront of the field when it comes to experimentation.
Max Shubert, the innovator behind Grange, came up with the idea of pressing the grapes and taking them to barrel while they were still actively fermenting at 2-3 baume. This too was unique to Grange for a while; it is now widely adopted.
The wine that has the room buzzing, however, is 2006 Yarra Yering Dry Red No.2. The company was recently acquired by Singapore's own Ed Peters, but it is the quality and style that is the talk of the table. Maintaining consistently low yields on unirrigated soils has lead to a wine that is, in Halliday's words, “most complex” and has a “unique style”. Lisa adds that she likes the “earthy” character and flavours of “dried Mediterranean herbs”. The only downside for Halliday is the cork stopper!
There is also a stalky character to the wine that Halliday say is a result of “whole bunch pressing” of grapes. This method is one of the on-going trends that he has identified in the production of quality Shiraz. It is a method used by Syrah producers in the Rhone.
The Barossa Valley 2008 Kaesler, Alte Reben Shiraz is another acquisition of Singapore-based Ed Peters, this time in conjunction with flying wine makers Reid & Bindy Bosward. The “whole bunch pressing” is evident here too, as Halliday points out it's crucial role in this wine's tannin structure. There are less than 1000 bottles of this made each vintage so it is a particularly rare wine. The fruit comes from vines planted in 1899 with the resulting wine benefiting from subtle use of French oak, and an absence of fining and filtration to give the wine it's full expression.
This is just a snapshot of the wonderful wines sampled on the journey to Grange. It is a perfect destination, just as impressive as I have imagined all these years, but the journey itself has been First Class.
Thanks to Peter Knipp Holdings Pte Ltd and all at The World Gourmet Summit.
http://www.worldgourmetsummit.com/wgs2011/english/
I was at The World Gourmet Summit in Sentosa last week for a tutored Shiraz tasting with James Halliday and guests Lisa Perotti-Brown MW and Dr N K Yong. My destination wine was going to be Penfolds Grange (and boy, was it good). But along the way I was treated to some wine discoveries that made the journey just as sweet.
Hunter Valley, or “the umbilical cord of Sydney”, as Halliday likes to call it, is at the hot end of the scale for a fine wine producing area. For a long time the shiraz from this area was “undiscovered and undervalued”, he says , but the “recent awakening of Tyrrell's to the age of their vines” has lead fellow winemakers to follow suit, and collectively “take the game by the throat”. The 2007 Tyrrell's Vat 9 Hunter Shiraz is a great example of old vine Shiraz, made from vines with an average age of 80 years.
Hunter Valley, like the other winemaking areas represented today, has never been affected by the phylloxera louse. It is an important point to note as these vines are ungrafted, and grown on their own roots. This is extremely rare in the world of winemaking; only a few countires and viticultural areas can lay claim to this. All others have vines that are grafted on to American root stock to protect them from the louse. Ungrafted vines have a longer lifespan and can lead to deep concentrated flavours in the grapes due to naturally lowering yields.
It maybe surprising, but this, and many of the other top wines here, are sealed with a screw cap. Halliday is a proponent of screw cap technology and would choose screw cap over cork for all wines, whether they are meant for drinking young, or for ageing. It is a controversial subject, he says; an ongoing 'topic of discussion' within the wine industry. By way of example he refers to two of the Penfolds wines tasting today.
Penfolds Grange uses cork whereas Penfolds RWT has a screw cap: is this just because of consumer image and the “perception of quality” a cork brings to a wine? Halliday remarks that he would be willing to pay more for a Grange with a screw cap closure!
However, the 2005 Henschke Hill of Grace is an example of a super-premium wine that uses screw cap as a closure: a rare sight indeed at it's price point. Halliday hopes this is the way forward for all wines, and indeed it doesn't seem to have affected it's popularity.
The Hill of Grace comes from Eden Valley, just next to Barossa. It is second in line to the Shiraz throne, behind 2004 Penfolds Grange. Comparisons cannot really be made between the two as they are made in two very distinct styles.
Hill of Grace was one of the first single vineyard sites to be made famous in Australia. Halliday states that it's a single vineyard wine using “a whole mosaic of different blocks”. Halliday has tasted the grapes, juice and fermented grape juice of the different blocks within Hill of Grace and can report that the characters are “significantly different”.The individual blocks are selected for the wine depending on the character of the vintage.
Penfolds Grange is a much more intense style of wine, but according to Halliday, it “shows class through it's back palate and finish”.It is not a single vineyard wine, but a multi-region wine. However the complex blending involved is not dissimilar to the assembly of Hill of Grace's vineyard blocks of grapes.
They use a method that is unique to Penfolds to maximise fruit flavour and give longevity to the wine. They add tannins derived from powdered grape tannin for balance and structure and so exercise complete control of the ageing potential. Sounds strange, but then again, Penfolds are always at the forefront of the field when it comes to experimentation.
Max Shubert, the innovator behind Grange, came up with the idea of pressing the grapes and taking them to barrel while they were still actively fermenting at 2-3 baume. This too was unique to Grange for a while; it is now widely adopted.
There is also a stalky character to the wine that Halliday say is a result of “whole bunch pressing” of grapes. This method is one of the on-going trends that he has identified in the production of quality Shiraz. It is a method used by Syrah producers in the Rhone.
The Barossa Valley 2008 Kaesler, Alte Reben Shiraz is another acquisition of Singapore-based Ed Peters, this time in conjunction with flying wine makers Reid & Bindy Bosward. The “whole bunch pressing” is evident here too, as Halliday points out it's crucial role in this wine's tannin structure. There are less than 1000 bottles of this made each vintage so it is a particularly rare wine. The fruit comes from vines planted in 1899 with the resulting wine benefiting from subtle use of French oak, and an absence of fining and filtration to give the wine it's full expression.
This is just a snapshot of the wonderful wines sampled on the journey to Grange. It is a perfect destination, just as impressive as I have imagined all these years, but the journey itself has been First Class.
Thanks to Peter Knipp Holdings Pte Ltd and all at The World Gourmet Summit.
http://www.worldgourmetsummit.com/wgs2011/english/
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Taking the Shish
Let's begin at the beginning: I like to think that I know a lot about kebabs, right? I was there during the Portsmouth & Southsea Kebab Wars in the late 80's when the phrase "buy 1 get 1 free" was invented over stirrings of chilli sauce. I've eaten TWO kebabs in one night - hey, it was a long walk home! I've eaten shawarma in Israel, in between mixing cement and cutting floor tiles, and tucked into souvlaki in Greece next to the Acropolis. I haven't been to Turkey or the Lebanon but i've been there in spirit in the restaurants of Dalston, Green Lanes and Newington Green in London. Yep, I've tried 'em all.
What I haven't tasted before is a Singapore kebab, so it is with great merriment that I skip towards Arab Street with my trusted companion, El Jacko (aka Caroline) to sample the delights of this culinary enclave.
Tonight we are to frequent TWO establishments. No, not to recreate a bygone era of drunken student debauchery: It is because the first place is so bad that we have to walk out, Gordon Ramsay style.
On arrival at Alaturka Restaurant, Bussorah Street, we are told that they are shutting early tonight because they have their anniversary party. How sweet, we say, no problem. How inconvenient, I think to myself.
"Are you celebrating with your own home-cooked food?" i joke.
"No, we are going elsewhere", comes the reply.
Little do I know that I'll want to do the same thing in approximately 25 minutes time.
We are forced to order tea from the drinks menu as there is not a beer in sight, so opt for the mint tea. Curiously, the opportunity to give us our first glimpse of authenticity is thwarted by the arrival of a pot of tea that would have looked at home in my Nan's kitchen in the 50s. Where is the wonderful, ornate teapot, fashioned out of metal and delivered on an intricately crafted tray?
I look up and notice that the "authentic tiles" on the wall are in fact laminate...
The baba ganoush turns up with all the florish of a navvy's breakfast, and the sad middle eastern salad is devoid of any discernible flavour. In fact, it seems remarkable that flavour can actually be taken away from a dish, but somehow they manage it.
In comparison with the second course, the starter is a triumph. I order the lamb chops as they are recommended by our guide book. Served on a copper platter, it says.
They turn up on a very ordinary looking plate, covered in what can only be described as cold Bisto. There are some cold vegetables too: Peppers? No. Eggpant? No. Boiled broccoli and cauliflower? Of course!
The only hot thing at the table is the steam coming out of my ears, but I wait patiently for Caroline's food to turn up. Five minutes later and still nothing. It's not that my food is getting cold - that would be impossible - If i left it long enough in Singapore's heat it might just be warm enough to eat.
So, having had quite enough, I demand to see the manager to complain that my food seems to have been mixed up with that of a bad school canteen. I find myself pointing at vegetables and gravy and saying in high pitched Ramsay-stylee, "What's that doing on this plate??"
So we walk out. I do pay the man £10 for his trouble, which is far more that he deserves.It's a kind of anniversary present of sorts.
On to the next venue we go, eagerly awaiting our next disappointment. And are we disappointed? No, it is just as bad as the last!
Sufi is the name of the restaurant, but it is largely irrelevant seeing as the standard of food here is indicative of the poor standards of the whole area.
Again we order mint tea, but this time it arrives in a more authentic teapot. Nice touch. Until we look inside. Even the first place used FRESH mint. This is a mint teabag. Oh dear.
While waiting for the food to arrive, a cockroach scurries from the premises next door, straight towards us. Even cockroaches are bemused by the standards here. One swift crunch of the flip flop and it's bye-bye time Mr Roach. It's lifeless body is the most edible thing I've seen so far this evening, certainly the freshest.
As rigor mortis sets in, our mixed meat platter turns up. Hooray! It's in a copper bowl! This is gonna be great!
As the bowl approaches, my heart sinks as I see some grilled meats lying in a Bisto gravy with brocolli and cauliflower on the side. Like the cockroach, I feel crushed, but summon the strength to tuck into what looks like sunday lunch served with rice.
In a city that loves to eat, we have discovered the one place that is culinarily deserted. As I scan the dessert menu merely out of politeness, I notice the typo error "desert". We take the hint and hail a taxi home.
 |
| "Small Doner, please" |
What I haven't tasted before is a Singapore kebab, so it is with great merriment that I skip towards Arab Street with my trusted companion, El Jacko (aka Caroline) to sample the delights of this culinary enclave.
Tonight we are to frequent TWO establishments. No, not to recreate a bygone era of drunken student debauchery: It is because the first place is so bad that we have to walk out, Gordon Ramsay style.
On arrival at Alaturka Restaurant, Bussorah Street, we are told that they are shutting early tonight because they have their anniversary party. How sweet, we say, no problem. How inconvenient, I think to myself.
"Are you celebrating with your own home-cooked food?" i joke.
"No, we are going elsewhere", comes the reply.
Little do I know that I'll want to do the same thing in approximately 25 minutes time.
We are forced to order tea from the drinks menu as there is not a beer in sight, so opt for the mint tea. Curiously, the opportunity to give us our first glimpse of authenticity is thwarted by the arrival of a pot of tea that would have looked at home in my Nan's kitchen in the 50s. Where is the wonderful, ornate teapot, fashioned out of metal and delivered on an intricately crafted tray?
I look up and notice that the "authentic tiles" on the wall are in fact laminate...
The baba ganoush turns up with all the florish of a navvy's breakfast, and the sad middle eastern salad is devoid of any discernible flavour. In fact, it seems remarkable that flavour can actually be taken away from a dish, but somehow they manage it.
In comparison with the second course, the starter is a triumph. I order the lamb chops as they are recommended by our guide book. Served on a copper platter, it says.
They turn up on a very ordinary looking plate, covered in what can only be described as cold Bisto. There are some cold vegetables too: Peppers? No. Eggpant? No. Boiled broccoli and cauliflower? Of course!
 |
| All meat, yes: but not kebabs |
The only hot thing at the table is the steam coming out of my ears, but I wait patiently for Caroline's food to turn up. Five minutes later and still nothing. It's not that my food is getting cold - that would be impossible - If i left it long enough in Singapore's heat it might just be warm enough to eat.
So, having had quite enough, I demand to see the manager to complain that my food seems to have been mixed up with that of a bad school canteen. I find myself pointing at vegetables and gravy and saying in high pitched Ramsay-stylee, "What's that doing on this plate??"
So we walk out. I do pay the man £10 for his trouble, which is far more that he deserves.It's a kind of anniversary present of sorts.
On to the next venue we go, eagerly awaiting our next disappointment. And are we disappointed? No, it is just as bad as the last!
Sufi is the name of the restaurant, but it is largely irrelevant seeing as the standard of food here is indicative of the poor standards of the whole area.
Again we order mint tea, but this time it arrives in a more authentic teapot. Nice touch. Until we look inside. Even the first place used FRESH mint. This is a mint teabag. Oh dear.
While waiting for the food to arrive, a cockroach scurries from the premises next door, straight towards us. Even cockroaches are bemused by the standards here. One swift crunch of the flip flop and it's bye-bye time Mr Roach. It's lifeless body is the most edible thing I've seen so far this evening, certainly the freshest.
As rigor mortis sets in, our mixed meat platter turns up. Hooray! It's in a copper bowl! This is gonna be great!
As the bowl approaches, my heart sinks as I see some grilled meats lying in a Bisto gravy with brocolli and cauliflower on the side. Like the cockroach, I feel crushed, but summon the strength to tuck into what looks like sunday lunch served with rice.
In a city that loves to eat, we have discovered the one place that is culinarily deserted. As I scan the dessert menu merely out of politeness, I notice the typo error "desert". We take the hint and hail a taxi home.
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Sentosa Island Getaway
Dangling high in the air, attached to a single metal cable is obviously not Caroline's idea of a relaxing start to the weekend, as she has a distinct green tinge around the gills. However, we are heading to Sentosa island via cable car to Resort World's Universal Studios and I'm almost certain this is going to seem tame in comparison.
It's about $70 each to get in so it's my turn to go slightly green and queasy as panic sets in at getting some cash out. In reality this is actually not too bad - approx £35 each. Alton Towers in the UK is about the same price. Mind you at Chessington you can take a family of 5 for the same price!
Once in there, we are in a land of make believe, not dissimilar from Singapore itself, where nothing quite seems real. We walk through downtown Hollywood then into New York where we witness Lights! Camera! Action! a live special effects show of a hurricane hitting New York's sky line. Not a bad start.
We chicken out of going on some mental rollercoaster after they announce that it the ride is temporarily suspended. If only you could do the same when commuting on the Tube in London....
So, Caroline thought the Cable Car was scary, huh? Next we get on The Mummy ride. I don't realise I'm screaming but I must be - Caroline is laughing at me when we get off - I thought that was her high pitched screeching. There is a lot of lurching about and falling down huge bottomless pits - what makes it really scary is that most of it happens in pitch blackness, like a real nightmare...
We go to see Shrek in 4D and it is really good - 3D specs on, you get the 4th dimension with a splash of water here and there, moving seats and gusts of air. Bit like watching a film with a bunch of hoodies in Hammersmith Broadway, really, but without people talking loudly on mobile phones, innit.
Despite this, we're not quite prepared for spiders falling around us in 3D with a terrifying brushing against our legs as they fall to the floor! Not sure what all the kids made of it but there was an awful lot of screaming - and not just from me this time. If only it was Hammersmith Broadway: da yoof would be outta there like a shot!
Despite this, we're not quite prepared for spiders falling around us in 3D with a terrifying brushing against our legs as they fall to the floor! Not sure what all the kids made of it but there was an awful lot of screaming - and not just from me this time. If only it was Hammersmith Broadway: da yoof would be outta there like a shot!
The rest: Waterworld (entertaining enough), Lost World (gave up queuing) and burger in a diner (pretty good) All done, we head to Sentosa beach!
The beach is great, lined with bars all the way along - expat heaven! We dive into one (Coastes), hiding from the rain that's just started and get stuck into a jug of Carlsberg. We move on to the bar next door (Bikini Bar); I realise pretty quickly why we couldn't get a seat there straight away. Bikini ogling seems to be what's attracting the largely male clientele. And why not? Except I'm facing the other way and sitting with the Mrs...
We while away a couple of hours with the dulcet tones of drunk Australians and a fine selection of tunes from the house DJ as a soundtrack. Bliss
We while away a couple of hours with the dulcet tones of drunk Australians and a fine selection of tunes from the house DJ as a soundtrack. Bliss
Enomatic: A Bond Moment
Some people have Blonde Moments, well, I've just had a Bond Moment!
The good people of Enomatic wine serving systems have just come up with a revolutionary new idea; let's make everyone feel like they're on the set of a Bond movie in a Monte Carlo casino. How do they do that, you might ask. Well, they invent Flute, a system that dispenses glasses of Champagne from a machine that could conceivably come from Q's gadget lab!
The sleek, dark exterior with flashes of chrome purrs to life like an Aston Martin. Backlit bottles of Bollinger stand proud behind the shiny glass like engine pistons. Your Champagne is dispensed with ease as the sensor acknowledges your waiting flute. Next to this is another well crafted beauty called North Pole that has you imagining a daring mission across icy seas while you enjoy a Martini made with chilled Grey Goose....
But, hey, back to reality!
The system is stylish and gorgeous to look at but on a practical level (Bond was practical too!) it allows us all to have these Bond moments without the unecessary risks. You can try high end wines and Champagnes before you buy, which liberates the world of wine. Now you can sample that vintage Krug or Dom Perignon without opening a Swiss bank account or indeed having a Licence to Kill...
For more details see http://www.enomatic.co.nz/home/
The good people of Enomatic wine serving systems have just come up with a revolutionary new idea; let's make everyone feel like they're on the set of a Bond movie in a Monte Carlo casino. How do they do that, you might ask. Well, they invent Flute, a system that dispenses glasses of Champagne from a machine that could conceivably come from Q's gadget lab!
The sleek, dark exterior with flashes of chrome purrs to life like an Aston Martin. Backlit bottles of Bollinger stand proud behind the shiny glass like engine pistons. Your Champagne is dispensed with ease as the sensor acknowledges your waiting flute. Next to this is another well crafted beauty called North Pole that has you imagining a daring mission across icy seas while you enjoy a Martini made with chilled Grey Goose....
But, hey, back to reality!
The system is stylish and gorgeous to look at but on a practical level (Bond was practical too!) it allows us all to have these Bond moments without the unecessary risks. You can try high end wines and Champagnes before you buy, which liberates the world of wine. Now you can sample that vintage Krug or Dom Perignon without opening a Swiss bank account or indeed having a Licence to Kill...
For more details see http://www.enomatic.co.nz/home/
A Man Walks into a Bar...
A man walks into a bar to buy a glass of wine..... sounds like the start of a joke, and of course it normally is. The wine selection by the glass in most bars and pubs is gradually improving, but how do you know that the wine hasn't been hanging around on the counter-top for days, if not weeks, rendering it more suitable as part of a salad dressing?
This is where a new phenomenon in wine dispensing, Enomatic, makes a very welcome entrance to the world of wine bars. Enomatic machines enable customers to experience wine at the correct temperature and in the right condition, every time.
I'm at Vintry in Clarke Quay, a smart yet relaxed bar with 4 of these Enomatic machines, delivering 32 wines by the glass as well as many others by the bottle. Fazil is Operations Manager, but he also happens to be a very experienced Sommelier, so you are in safe hands here.
First, you purchase a payment card with your chosen amount of credit, grab a glass and choose whether you want a tasting measure (25ml) a small glass (75ml) or a large glass (150ml). It takes the hassle out of buying wine to match food or to suit the personal tastes of a larger group. There are recommendations and scores from Wine Spectator, Parker et al to help you make your choice. What could be easier?
The Local Nose sets Fazil the challenge of coming up with a list of wines that can be sampled for a straight $50 that will impress even the fiercest wine critic. As Fazil really knows his wines and his ever-changing selection, it doesn't take him long to come up with the goods.
Fazil's selection showcases the breadth of wine on offer at Vintry and it's like a journey to the 4 corners of the wine world!
The Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling 2007 ($4) is a good place to start with it's stone-fruit and citrus flavours with a pleasant whiff of petrol. A refeshing aperitif to begin our adventure.
An Italian Michele Chiarlo Gavi Le Marne 2009 ($3) is next, with classic honeyed aromas and apricot and nettle on the palate. A smooth, balanced wine.
Trimbach Gewürztraminer 2007 ($2.5) is a classic, fragrant, Old World wine that's great with Asian food flavours. Roses and lychee on the nose with vegetal, sweet pea and basil flavours make this deliciously different and utterly compelling.
In direct contrast to the Aussie Riesling, I try Dr Loosen's Wehlener Sohnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 ($3) and it is full of lime and peaches, with a lovely sweetness of orange and apricot on the palate. A great opportunity to sample “Kabinett”-style wine at a give-away price!
Robert Mondavi Reserve Chardonnay 2005 ($5.5) is buttery and nutty but made in restrained Old World Burgundy style. There is good acidity to balance that richness of the caramelised pear flavour.
I feel like I've been around the world already and we're only halfway through his list....
On to the reds next, I start with St Clair Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2009 ($2.5) from New Zealand. It has a savoury, smoky bacon nose with red fruits on the palate, and hints of spiced red apple to finish. A super start for the reds!
I'm blown away by the Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru 2006 ($8.5), a top Pinot Noir from Burgundy, that follows. There's warm oak on the nose with more of that spiced red apple; there are warm vanilla hints and cinnamon and almond. Really good.
On to Italy and we visit Gaja Sito Moresco 2008 ($5.5) with it's fresh, chalky, cherry nose and black cherry, treacle, cassis and minty notes on the palate. There is great acidity here, along with integrated oak. Gaja is iconic – you can't fail but be impressed.
Petrolo Torrione 2006, Italy ($4.5) a Sangiovese from Tuscany, supplies menthol cherry and herb aromas with savoury oak and cherry richness on the palate. One to sit back and relax with, definitely.
Next stop is California and a Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet 2006 ($3.5). It has a pure cassis nose with drops of sandlewood oak and capsicum. It is smoky and meaty with fine tannin structure. This would keep and develop over the next few years, but it won't get the chance: it's too good right now!
I'm even getting the opportunity to sample a classed growth Bordeaux in the shape of Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac 2006 ($8.5) – who would have thought that the money would go so far?! Lovely raisin and tobacco on the nose and palate with red apple spice and warm oak. It is bright and alive, a rare glimpse at the youthful beginnings of a classic Claret.
It all comes to $51 - $1 over, but I think it might have been worth it!
The Enomatic technology means that each wine is in great condition, as you'd expect – this is a machine, after all. However, it's the human touch that makes all the difference and that's what makes Vintry special. You can get involved in choosing your own wine and pouring your own glass and learning about wine. But, best of all, you too can set Fazil the $50 challenge – see what he comes up with!
Some more top choices from Fazil:
Whites:
Mt. Difficulty 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($3)
Franz Haas Manna (Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminer Aromatico, Sauvignon Blanc) 2008 ($4)
Beringer White Zinfandel 2008 ($2)
Reds:
Jean Luc Colombo St Joseph Les Lauves 2007 ($4.5)
Richard Hamilton Centurion Shiraz 2006 ($5.5)
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2007 ($3)
Craggy Range Sophia 2005 ($5)
Yacochuya Malbec 2003 ($8)
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino, Madonna delle Grazia 2005 ($7)
Robert Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($5.5)
Sweet:
Disznóko 5 puttonyos 2000 ($5.5)
This is where a new phenomenon in wine dispensing, Enomatic, makes a very welcome entrance to the world of wine bars. Enomatic machines enable customers to experience wine at the correct temperature and in the right condition, every time.
I'm at Vintry in Clarke Quay, a smart yet relaxed bar with 4 of these Enomatic machines, delivering 32 wines by the glass as well as many others by the bottle. Fazil is Operations Manager, but he also happens to be a very experienced Sommelier, so you are in safe hands here.
First, you purchase a payment card with your chosen amount of credit, grab a glass and choose whether you want a tasting measure (25ml) a small glass (75ml) or a large glass (150ml). It takes the hassle out of buying wine to match food or to suit the personal tastes of a larger group. There are recommendations and scores from Wine Spectator, Parker et al to help you make your choice. What could be easier?
The Local Nose sets Fazil the challenge of coming up with a list of wines that can be sampled for a straight $50 that will impress even the fiercest wine critic. As Fazil really knows his wines and his ever-changing selection, it doesn't take him long to come up with the goods.
Fazil's selection showcases the breadth of wine on offer at Vintry and it's like a journey to the 4 corners of the wine world!
The Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling 2007 ($4) is a good place to start with it's stone-fruit and citrus flavours with a pleasant whiff of petrol. A refeshing aperitif to begin our adventure.
An Italian Michele Chiarlo Gavi Le Marne 2009 ($3) is next, with classic honeyed aromas and apricot and nettle on the palate. A smooth, balanced wine.
Trimbach Gewürztraminer 2007 ($2.5) is a classic, fragrant, Old World wine that's great with Asian food flavours. Roses and lychee on the nose with vegetal, sweet pea and basil flavours make this deliciously different and utterly compelling.
In direct contrast to the Aussie Riesling, I try Dr Loosen's Wehlener Sohnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 ($3) and it is full of lime and peaches, with a lovely sweetness of orange and apricot on the palate. A great opportunity to sample “Kabinett”-style wine at a give-away price!
Robert Mondavi Reserve Chardonnay 2005 ($5.5) is buttery and nutty but made in restrained Old World Burgundy style. There is good acidity to balance that richness of the caramelised pear flavour.
I feel like I've been around the world already and we're only halfway through his list....
On to the reds next, I start with St Clair Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2009 ($2.5) from New Zealand. It has a savoury, smoky bacon nose with red fruits on the palate, and hints of spiced red apple to finish. A super start for the reds!
I'm blown away by the Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru 2006 ($8.5), a top Pinot Noir from Burgundy, that follows. There's warm oak on the nose with more of that spiced red apple; there are warm vanilla hints and cinnamon and almond. Really good.
On to Italy and we visit Gaja Sito Moresco 2008 ($5.5) with it's fresh, chalky, cherry nose and black cherry, treacle, cassis and minty notes on the palate. There is great acidity here, along with integrated oak. Gaja is iconic – you can't fail but be impressed.
Petrolo Torrione 2006, Italy ($4.5) a Sangiovese from Tuscany, supplies menthol cherry and herb aromas with savoury oak and cherry richness on the palate. One to sit back and relax with, definitely.
Next stop is California and a Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet 2006 ($3.5). It has a pure cassis nose with drops of sandlewood oak and capsicum. It is smoky and meaty with fine tannin structure. This would keep and develop over the next few years, but it won't get the chance: it's too good right now!
I'm even getting the opportunity to sample a classed growth Bordeaux in the shape of Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac 2006 ($8.5) – who would have thought that the money would go so far?! Lovely raisin and tobacco on the nose and palate with red apple spice and warm oak. It is bright and alive, a rare glimpse at the youthful beginnings of a classic Claret.
It all comes to $51 - $1 over, but I think it might have been worth it!
The Enomatic technology means that each wine is in great condition, as you'd expect – this is a machine, after all. However, it's the human touch that makes all the difference and that's what makes Vintry special. You can get involved in choosing your own wine and pouring your own glass and learning about wine. But, best of all, you too can set Fazil the $50 challenge – see what he comes up with!
Some more top choices from Fazil:
Whites:
Mt. Difficulty 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($3)
Franz Haas Manna (Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminer Aromatico, Sauvignon Blanc) 2008 ($4)
Beringer White Zinfandel 2008 ($2)
Reds:
Jean Luc Colombo St Joseph Les Lauves 2007 ($4.5)
Richard Hamilton Centurion Shiraz 2006 ($5.5)
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2007 ($3)
Craggy Range Sophia 2005 ($5)
Yacochuya Malbec 2003 ($8)
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino, Madonna delle Grazia 2005 ($7)
Robert Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($5.5)
Sweet:
Disznóko 5 puttonyos 2000 ($5.5)
Sherry – A Criminal Investigation!
A Sherry tasting with Dr Jesús Barquí, Equipo Navazos.
Taberna Wine Bar, 15th Feb 2011
It is a crime that Sherry wines have been ignored for so long, so who better to host a Sherry masterclass than Dr Jesús Barquí, professor of criminology at the University of Granada.
Dr Barqui's passion for sherry has developed so much over the years that he has gone from part-time wine writer to expert in his field. Not surprising, perhaps, for a man that prides himself on gathering and imparting knowledge in his day job, but Jesús has gone about this a slightly different way. He and some like-minded Sherry fans decided to buy (and bottle) a barrel of 20 year old Amontillado!
This was in 2005, and since then the wild purchase has developed from a one off act for the pleasure of friends, to a project that has evolved into more commercial scale bottlings. Saying that, the scale is still tiny and the wines very rare (2,000 – 5,000 bottles per release) so the opportunity of trying some of these Sherries with the man himself could not be missed!
Jesús calls these wines his “children”, such is his pride in their development. He corrects himself later, using the description “adopted-children”, for these are wines created by the best Sherry bodegas – he just adopts them and nurtures them like his own. Along with his friend and business partner, Eduardo Ojeda, technical director of Grupo Estevez, he has chosen not only the best Soleras (groups of barrels) that Sherry has to offer, but also the best barrels with in those Soleras!
We start with some bubbly – not Champagne of course, maybe some Cava? No! This is a brand new experience! These are two sparkling wines made by Equipo Navazos in a joint venture with Colet Vins:
The wines are of the Penedés appellation (near Barcelona) as they are made with wines from the north. However the magic is in the Sherry wines that are added at dosage stage and this why the wine stands out. Dosage is the addition of wine and/or sugar in the traditional method of making Champagne and sparkling wine. Here, they add Sherry wine but no sugar. - This is Brut Zero – a slimmer's drink!
COLET-NAVAZOS 2007 Extra Brut. Made from mainly the Xarel.lo grape in an oxidative style (letting air gently change the wine's chemistry) It was cellared for 29 months before it was disgorged in October 2010. The nose is raisin, honeysuckle, oats and nuts with a dry palate and a smooth creamy finish. Touches of caramel come from the dosage.
COLET-NAVAZOS Reserva 2006 Extra Brut. Made from mainly Chardonnay in a Flor-yeasts style (letting the wine mature under a protective layer of naturally occuring yeast). It was cellared for 41 months before it was disgorged in October 2010. On the nose it is more fragrant, more reminiscent of Champagne, with apricot, lime, stone fruits and oats. There are apricots on the palate with yeasty, creamy flavours to counter the crisp acidity.
Jesús introduces us to another rare experience; sampling a non-fortified cask-fermented wine made with the Sherry grape Palamino Fino. Made in collaboration with Niepoort of Portugal, the NAVAZOS − NIEPOORT 2009 is full of complexity from it's ageing under Flor yeast. The style harks back to traditional wine-making in the Sherry area and is made to highlight the terroir of the chalky soils.
The aromas are of rum and raisin chocolate, un-ripe banana and figs. It is nutty like walnut with orange zest, fig and bay on the palate. The finish has a mild numbing effect on the tongue!
The next two wines are Fino-style Sherrys: here the wines develop under a layer of the Flor yeast. They both use grapes from the Macharnudo Alto vineyards and are unfiltered to show terroir character (or, their “upbringing”, to use Jesús' metaphor). We get to compare two different extractions; this is the date when the Sherry is taken from the barrel.
The LA BOTA DE FINO (nº 15) was extracted in June 2008. It has a nose of marmalade and caramelised banana but also savoury. Notes of hay, oats, mineral and sesame are on the palate.
However, the LA BOTA DE FINO (nº 18) ,extracted in December 2009, shows more raisiny, smoky characters and is richer, but with a cleansing minerality.
The differences are very interesting!
We get to sample LA BOTA DE FINO (AMONTILLADO) nº 24 next. This is a Fino, but is on it's way to becoming an Amontillado. Amontillado is a Sherry that develops from a Fino as the Flor breaks down gradually and the wine has more contact with the air. It is made in Montilla, which holds the best Pedro Ximénez (a sweet grape) vineyards and their chalky soils. Estimated at over 20 years old, this is still a Fino but the fragile flor has thinned during the wine's ageing which darkens and hightens the richer flavours.
The wine is nutty, salty and buttery with a slightly vegetal nature but has Christmas Cake aromas and a doughy yeastiness.
As a comparison there is LA BOTA DE AMONTILLADO (nº 23) which is a straight Amontillado. This is a very old wine, although Jesús doesn't say exactly how old. The ageing brings out more toffee notes and burnt orange, like a Terry's Dark Chocolate Orange (if you've had one!) There are also nuts, raisins, hay and a smokiness.
Jesús gives us two more wines to compare, made in the same way as Fino, but hailing from Sanlúcar and called Manzanilla. These wines are renowned for their freshness, enabled by the delicate natural Flor that is created by a moist climate influenced by the proximity to sea breezes. Some say you can taste the sea in it's salty minerality.
LA BOTA DE MANZANILLA (nº 16) extracted Jan 2009. This is aged Manzanilla so there is raisin on the nose and fullness on the body. There is definitely a briney quality to the wine and a smoothness. There are also faint hints of Banoffee Pie on the nose giving this a very different quality than your average Manzanilla style wine that is drunk young.
LA BOTA DE MANZANILLA (nº 22) extracted May 2010. There are hazelnuts, apricots and toasted almonds on the nose and palate. There is a slight herbal quality on the finish, reminiscent of the tongue-numbing sparkling wine earlier but this time like spearmint.
Palo Cortado is a natural style of Sherry, somewhere between a Fino / Amontillado and a Oloroso; the protective flor dies and the wine begins to age oxidatively giving it elegance, complexity and body. Oloroso is a deeper coloured, richer Sherry that is produced without the influence of Flor. It is fortified to around 18% as opposed to Fino fortification of 15.5%.
LA BOTA DE PALO CORTADO (nº 21) Raisin and almond on the nose but with some oxidative toasty notes. There are toasted marshmallow and sweet pastry flavours countering the dry style.
LA BOTA DE OLOROSO VIEJÍSIMO (nº 14) An impeccable wine with real age and concentration. This oloroso is nutty, smoky and meaty and there are hints of paprika.
We are treated to some chunky slabs of Iberico Ham with melting strips of fat that go perfectly with the wine! The meat brings out a sweetness in the wine and it dawns on me that at some stage I want to do this whole tasting again... with food! The matches could be heavenly as these are amazing food-wines.
Lastly we have LA BOTA DE PEDRO XIMÉNEZ (nº 25) from Montilla-Moriles – a dessert in a glass! Probably well over 30 years old, and from barrels separated from the usual routine of Solera topping up, it is as pure an expression of the sun-dried grapes and terroir as possible.
There is a popcorn nose, with raisin and prune. The palate is dense with prune, fig and treacle but has an acidity that also refreshes. Sometimes Pedro Ximenez can be cloying in it's richness but not so here!
As you can see, there are many styles of Sherry; serious wine makers and connoisseurs are seeking new and interesting expressions of Sherry and changing the way we think about this classic wine.
So, do some detective work and find some criminally-good Sherries! These work well on their own, as an aperitif and match all kinds of seafood and spicy meats. And at these prices, you'll feel like someone's been robbed, and for once it isn't you!
Taberna Wine Bar, 15th Feb 2011
It is a crime that Sherry wines have been ignored for so long, so who better to host a Sherry masterclass than Dr Jesús Barquí, professor of criminology at the University of Granada.
Dr Barqui's passion for sherry has developed so much over the years that he has gone from part-time wine writer to expert in his field. Not surprising, perhaps, for a man that prides himself on gathering and imparting knowledge in his day job, but Jesús has gone about this a slightly different way. He and some like-minded Sherry fans decided to buy (and bottle) a barrel of 20 year old Amontillado!
This was in 2005, and since then the wild purchase has developed from a one off act for the pleasure of friends, to a project that has evolved into more commercial scale bottlings. Saying that, the scale is still tiny and the wines very rare (2,000 – 5,000 bottles per release) so the opportunity of trying some of these Sherries with the man himself could not be missed!
Jesús calls these wines his “children”, such is his pride in their development. He corrects himself later, using the description “adopted-children”, for these are wines created by the best Sherry bodegas – he just adopts them and nurtures them like his own. Along with his friend and business partner, Eduardo Ojeda, technical director of Grupo Estevez, he has chosen not only the best Soleras (groups of barrels) that Sherry has to offer, but also the best barrels with in those Soleras!
We start with some bubbly – not Champagne of course, maybe some Cava? No! This is a brand new experience! These are two sparkling wines made by Equipo Navazos in a joint venture with Colet Vins:
The wines are of the Penedés appellation (near Barcelona) as they are made with wines from the north. However the magic is in the Sherry wines that are added at dosage stage and this why the wine stands out. Dosage is the addition of wine and/or sugar in the traditional method of making Champagne and sparkling wine. Here, they add Sherry wine but no sugar. - This is Brut Zero – a slimmer's drink!
COLET-NAVAZOS 2007 Extra Brut. Made from mainly the Xarel.lo grape in an oxidative style (letting air gently change the wine's chemistry) It was cellared for 29 months before it was disgorged in October 2010. The nose is raisin, honeysuckle, oats and nuts with a dry palate and a smooth creamy finish. Touches of caramel come from the dosage.
COLET-NAVAZOS Reserva 2006 Extra Brut. Made from mainly Chardonnay in a Flor-yeasts style (letting the wine mature under a protective layer of naturally occuring yeast). It was cellared for 41 months before it was disgorged in October 2010. On the nose it is more fragrant, more reminiscent of Champagne, with apricot, lime, stone fruits and oats. There are apricots on the palate with yeasty, creamy flavours to counter the crisp acidity.
Jesús introduces us to another rare experience; sampling a non-fortified cask-fermented wine made with the Sherry grape Palamino Fino. Made in collaboration with Niepoort of Portugal, the NAVAZOS − NIEPOORT 2009 is full of complexity from it's ageing under Flor yeast. The style harks back to traditional wine-making in the Sherry area and is made to highlight the terroir of the chalky soils.
The aromas are of rum and raisin chocolate, un-ripe banana and figs. It is nutty like walnut with orange zest, fig and bay on the palate. The finish has a mild numbing effect on the tongue!
The next two wines are Fino-style Sherrys: here the wines develop under a layer of the Flor yeast. They both use grapes from the Macharnudo Alto vineyards and are unfiltered to show terroir character (or, their “upbringing”, to use Jesús' metaphor). We get to compare two different extractions; this is the date when the Sherry is taken from the barrel.
The LA BOTA DE FINO (nº 15) was extracted in June 2008. It has a nose of marmalade and caramelised banana but also savoury. Notes of hay, oats, mineral and sesame are on the palate.
However, the LA BOTA DE FINO (nº 18) ,extracted in December 2009, shows more raisiny, smoky characters and is richer, but with a cleansing minerality.
The differences are very interesting!
We get to sample LA BOTA DE FINO (AMONTILLADO) nº 24 next. This is a Fino, but is on it's way to becoming an Amontillado. Amontillado is a Sherry that develops from a Fino as the Flor breaks down gradually and the wine has more contact with the air. It is made in Montilla, which holds the best Pedro Ximénez (a sweet grape) vineyards and their chalky soils. Estimated at over 20 years old, this is still a Fino but the fragile flor has thinned during the wine's ageing which darkens and hightens the richer flavours.
The wine is nutty, salty and buttery with a slightly vegetal nature but has Christmas Cake aromas and a doughy yeastiness.
As a comparison there is LA BOTA DE AMONTILLADO (nº 23) which is a straight Amontillado. This is a very old wine, although Jesús doesn't say exactly how old. The ageing brings out more toffee notes and burnt orange, like a Terry's Dark Chocolate Orange (if you've had one!) There are also nuts, raisins, hay and a smokiness.
Jesús gives us two more wines to compare, made in the same way as Fino, but hailing from Sanlúcar and called Manzanilla. These wines are renowned for their freshness, enabled by the delicate natural Flor that is created by a moist climate influenced by the proximity to sea breezes. Some say you can taste the sea in it's salty minerality.
LA BOTA DE MANZANILLA (nº 16) extracted Jan 2009. This is aged Manzanilla so there is raisin on the nose and fullness on the body. There is definitely a briney quality to the wine and a smoothness. There are also faint hints of Banoffee Pie on the nose giving this a very different quality than your average Manzanilla style wine that is drunk young.
LA BOTA DE MANZANILLA (nº 22) extracted May 2010. There are hazelnuts, apricots and toasted almonds on the nose and palate. There is a slight herbal quality on the finish, reminiscent of the tongue-numbing sparkling wine earlier but this time like spearmint.
Palo Cortado is a natural style of Sherry, somewhere between a Fino / Amontillado and a Oloroso; the protective flor dies and the wine begins to age oxidatively giving it elegance, complexity and body. Oloroso is a deeper coloured, richer Sherry that is produced without the influence of Flor. It is fortified to around 18% as opposed to Fino fortification of 15.5%.
LA BOTA DE PALO CORTADO (nº 21) Raisin and almond on the nose but with some oxidative toasty notes. There are toasted marshmallow and sweet pastry flavours countering the dry style.
LA BOTA DE OLOROSO VIEJÍSIMO (nº 14) An impeccable wine with real age and concentration. This oloroso is nutty, smoky and meaty and there are hints of paprika.
We are treated to some chunky slabs of Iberico Ham with melting strips of fat that go perfectly with the wine! The meat brings out a sweetness in the wine and it dawns on me that at some stage I want to do this whole tasting again... with food! The matches could be heavenly as these are amazing food-wines.
Lastly we have LA BOTA DE PEDRO XIMÉNEZ (nº 25) from Montilla-Moriles – a dessert in a glass! Probably well over 30 years old, and from barrels separated from the usual routine of Solera topping up, it is as pure an expression of the sun-dried grapes and terroir as possible.
There is a popcorn nose, with raisin and prune. The palate is dense with prune, fig and treacle but has an acidity that also refreshes. Sometimes Pedro Ximenez can be cloying in it's richness but not so here!
As you can see, there are many styles of Sherry; serious wine makers and connoisseurs are seeking new and interesting expressions of Sherry and changing the way we think about this classic wine.
So, do some detective work and find some criminally-good Sherries! These work well on their own, as an aperitif and match all kinds of seafood and spicy meats. And at these prices, you'll feel like someone's been robbed, and for once it isn't you!
Quick Recipe Update
If you follow the recipe below more or less, it becomes a really good chicken satay marinade after a few days in the fridge ;)
Thursday, February 24, 2011
A Recipe For Disaster: SingaPoorMan's "Asian-Un-inspired" Salad
Step 1 - Have a look in fridge - Just some wine really - where's all the food?
Oh, there it is...outside...
Recipe:
Juice of 2 limes - make sure all the pips fall in the bowl so you have to fish them out
2 tablespoons of Fish Sauce - far too much - you'll regret that later
2 teaspoons Peanut Butter (preferable Skippys Low Cal one cos it tastes too sweet)
Stir around a bit until it looks like it's curdled - it probably has
Taste it - disgusting isn't it?
Splash of water to try to "emulsify" the curdling and add a couple of spoons more of the Peanut Butter
Looks Ok huh?
Add 2 large tablespoons or dessert spoons of Thai Chili Sauce (it doesn't really matter it'll taste rank anyway)
All at once it tastes too sweet, too salty and too acidic - waddayadonow?
Put some more sugar in? Might as well!
Get some fresh chili in it! (whole big red one...chop it up)
Ginger grated - most of a root should do
Some coriander leaf - tonnes of the stuff
Taste.....and it's awful!
Panic!
Open up some coconut milk to tame the excessive flavours - pour in as much as you want as it won't make a blind bit of difference
Still tastes too sweet, salty and acidic? - how is this possible?
Construct your salad:
Slice lettuce
Grate carrot
Slice cucumber
Slice red onion
Pick some mint leaves out of the fading bunch you bought a week ago
Look good? Actually it does!
Now, go and ruin it by pouring the melted chili flavoured Snickers bar all over it
The End
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Botany, Bays, Bikes & Batali
Sunday - not quite Valentine's Day but close enough: we decide to make a day of it and pack as much stuff in as we can....
Destination 1: the pool - not exactly miles away - in fact it's on the 3rd floor of the apartment block! Before you ask, it is outside. We've been down there 2 days running and have managed to get a bit of a tan in the space of 20 mins or so. It's pretty hot at the moment - I don't think it can be hotter than normal as the temperature is more or less the same everyday, but there is less rain. Rather than raining everyday, like it was when we arrived, the rain now comes every few days so there is a real build up of humidity.There seems to be less cloud cover too and this convinces you that you're not getting burnt! The pool is not that busy so you can always get a seat/lounger and do a few undisturbed lengths before getting on with the day.
Destination 2: more exercise, this time just as wet, as we walk very slowly in a pool of sweat towards the Botanical Gardens at the crossroads of Orchard Rd and Holland. I see people on air conditioned buses as my hair frizzes and skin stings and look forward to an Icy brain-freeze drink from the Seven-Eleven.
The Botanical Gardens are very relaxing and an oasis of calm from the concrete and chrome of Orchard Road. There are orchids and waterfalls and a huge lake, not to mention a rainforest. We ignore all that and go in search of the food-court.
It transpires that the food court has ceased to be so we make do with a hotdog smothered with a bolognaise sauce and some mini somosas. This isn't what we wanted! The Ginger Garden seems to promise all sorts of Asian culinary delights but alas, no; there is just Westernised, table-clothed, high-end cusine... or chips.
We have a bit of a wander and decide that there are too many tourists around (aint we the locals now, eh?). In a flash we are in a cab speeding down the highway towards Pulau Ubin, an Island accessed only by a 12-berth boat that leaves from Changi Point Jetty when it is full.
Changi is the village next to the airport. In London this would be Hounslow and would be fairly depressing - a place that people land in but can never leave. Here, however, there is a vibrant community with busy shops, bars and food-courts alongside a scattering of seashells on mini, white sandy beaches. I could quite easily spend the rest of the day here, but we are soon on the boat for Pulau Ubin on our 5 minute voyage to Destination 4.
The whole island looks like it's been made out of drift wood and corregated iron, but has a real presence about it. There are bars and seafood and a lot of bikes. We haggle over a clapped out bone-shaker or 2 and peddle off to see what is around. In reality all we care about is having an ice-cold beer but feel it is a little odd to just get off the boat and flop down at the nearest bar.
There are a few maps at strategic points around the island but these are identical; each one has an arrow pointing to the jetty, but not to where we are at that moment. This obviously makes finding your way around impossible. At every crossroads you follow whoever is cycling in front, in the hope that they might know where they are going. Of course, they don't.
Eventually we pass the same "Holiday Camp" twice - it looks a little deserted & eerie, like the setting for a horror movie. The rusting wheelchair at the entrance does not bode well but we soldier on and find ourselves at a rope bridge and a kiosk. Luckily the attendant is not some goolish, axe-wielding maniac and turns out to be a completely normal bloke, overseeing the water activities at the Celestial Resort. The brochure makes the place look slightly better than it is, but nonetheless it is a very pleasant spot overlooking a lagoon.
We sit at the air-conditioned bar and have what is probably the best beer of our lives. After all the exercise, the ice-cold glasses and ice-cold Tiger combine to give us a glimpse of beer heaven. We tuck into some spicy noodles while laughing at children who are laughing at other children falling out of canoes.
We make our way back to the jetty, dump the bikes and drown a last Tiger while over looking the white sands and make-shift cabins in the village. God knows what else there is to explore on the Island but we will try to find out on our next trip there. Either that or have a beer or 2.
Back in Singapore, I have a surprise dinner booked for us at Mozza, an Italian-American restaurant run by the famous Mario Batali. It is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino complex and seems a far cry from the wooden shack island we've just been to. Understandably, we've been home first to change before descending on Destination 5.
(See Review)
A picture from after our meal at Mozza:
Destination 1: the pool - not exactly miles away - in fact it's on the 3rd floor of the apartment block! Before you ask, it is outside. We've been down there 2 days running and have managed to get a bit of a tan in the space of 20 mins or so. It's pretty hot at the moment - I don't think it can be hotter than normal as the temperature is more or less the same everyday, but there is less rain. Rather than raining everyday, like it was when we arrived, the rain now comes every few days so there is a real build up of humidity.There seems to be less cloud cover too and this convinces you that you're not getting burnt! The pool is not that busy so you can always get a seat/lounger and do a few undisturbed lengths before getting on with the day.
Destination 2: more exercise, this time just as wet, as we walk very slowly in a pool of sweat towards the Botanical Gardens at the crossroads of Orchard Rd and Holland. I see people on air conditioned buses as my hair frizzes and skin stings and look forward to an Icy brain-freeze drink from the Seven-Eleven.
The Botanical Gardens are very relaxing and an oasis of calm from the concrete and chrome of Orchard Road. There are orchids and waterfalls and a huge lake, not to mention a rainforest. We ignore all that and go in search of the food-court.
It transpires that the food court has ceased to be so we make do with a hotdog smothered with a bolognaise sauce and some mini somosas. This isn't what we wanted! The Ginger Garden seems to promise all sorts of Asian culinary delights but alas, no; there is just Westernised, table-clothed, high-end cusine... or chips.
We have a bit of a wander and decide that there are too many tourists around (aint we the locals now, eh?). In a flash we are in a cab speeding down the highway towards Pulau Ubin, an Island accessed only by a 12-berth boat that leaves from Changi Point Jetty when it is full.
Changi is the village next to the airport. In London this would be Hounslow and would be fairly depressing - a place that people land in but can never leave. Here, however, there is a vibrant community with busy shops, bars and food-courts alongside a scattering of seashells on mini, white sandy beaches. I could quite easily spend the rest of the day here, but we are soon on the boat for Pulau Ubin on our 5 minute voyage to Destination 4.
The whole island looks like it's been made out of drift wood and corregated iron, but has a real presence about it. There are bars and seafood and a lot of bikes. We haggle over a clapped out bone-shaker or 2 and peddle off to see what is around. In reality all we care about is having an ice-cold beer but feel it is a little odd to just get off the boat and flop down at the nearest bar.
There are a few maps at strategic points around the island but these are identical; each one has an arrow pointing to the jetty, but not to where we are at that moment. This obviously makes finding your way around impossible. At every crossroads you follow whoever is cycling in front, in the hope that they might know where they are going. Of course, they don't.
Eventually we pass the same "Holiday Camp" twice - it looks a little deserted & eerie, like the setting for a horror movie. The rusting wheelchair at the entrance does not bode well but we soldier on and find ourselves at a rope bridge and a kiosk. Luckily the attendant is not some goolish, axe-wielding maniac and turns out to be a completely normal bloke, overseeing the water activities at the Celestial Resort. The brochure makes the place look slightly better than it is, but nonetheless it is a very pleasant spot overlooking a lagoon.
We sit at the air-conditioned bar and have what is probably the best beer of our lives. After all the exercise, the ice-cold glasses and ice-cold Tiger combine to give us a glimpse of beer heaven. We tuck into some spicy noodles while laughing at children who are laughing at other children falling out of canoes.
 |
| One last Tiger, please |
We make our way back to the jetty, dump the bikes and drown a last Tiger while over looking the white sands and make-shift cabins in the village. God knows what else there is to explore on the Island but we will try to find out on our next trip there. Either that or have a beer or 2.
Back in Singapore, I have a surprise dinner booked for us at Mozza, an Italian-American restaurant run by the famous Mario Batali. It is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino complex and seems a far cry from the wooden shack island we've just been to. Understandably, we've been home first to change before descending on Destination 5.
(See Review)
A picture from after our meal at Mozza:
 |
| View From Marina Bay Sands |
Mario Batali's Mozza: Pasta It's Best?
The place is smart, yet relaxed. There is a pizza joint on one side and a more upmarket Osteria on the other. The dress code is "business - casual" but who knows what that means. I opt for smart jeans and designer shirt but had toyed with the addition of a jacket. I'm glad I didn't as 2 blokes wander in with muscle-t-shirts and work-out shorts and are not turned away. This is definitely more American than Italian then. The rock music soundtrack pumping in the background completes the rather eclectic tone.
We also get an appearance from Mario himself who is in-town doing some PR. Mario's wardrobe of choice is pink shirt, body-warmer or waistcoat and a pair of Crocs as footwear. This is maybe his idea of "business-casual".
To begin; Charles Heidseck Champagne, which delivers fine frothy bubbles; biscuit and grapefruit on the nose combining with lemon and marshmallow on the palate.
Food-wise, we start with Crispy Pig's Trotter with cicoria and mustard for me; for Caroline, Burricotta with radicchio, spiced walnuts, honey & fried rosemary.
The Pig's Trotter is a bread-crumbed gelatinous ooze. It is tasty enough but certainly doesn't wow.
In direct contrast, Caroline's Burricotta is amazing! The combination of flavours is very pleasing and seems very Italian. Only the Italians know how to make great vegetarian food without you realising it. Here the $24 charge seems justified.
Orecchiette with sausage and Spaghetti Gricia are our pasta courses.
The sausage is like greasy mince with a hint of fennel. It needs some greens to counter the saltiness of the meat. It is OK, but not Italian- the lovely porkiness of fennel sausages in Italy are one of life's pleasures. This tastes like something I would cook if i'd ran out of the right ingredients. And the passion for making authentic Italian food.
I think mine is salty; til I taste Caroline's. The cured bacon in her spaghetti is way too salty and removes all other flavour from the dish. Disappointing.
Pan Roasted Sea Trout with umbrian lentils & red cabbage sottaceto and Grilled Beef Tagliata rucola & Parmigiano with aceto balsamico are our mains courses.
I get another very average dish : nicely cooked piece of fish with a few lentils and some pickled cabbage. Fine: but not for $40 and not for a portion of that size. I've seen bigger Tapas.
Caroline's Beef is really good! Medium rare inside, smoky-griddled outside, all with a nice hit of balsamic and Parmesan. This is much more like it. Simple and bold, and well.... tasty.
We finish with a faultless Panna Cotta, all firm yet wobbly with tangy fruits to complement the creaminess of the pudding. 2 strong espressos complete the meal and I wait for the bill.
I know this is going to be expensive - and it is. $500 (£250) is far far too expensive for this kind of thing. There is no consistency at all. Some things are great, some things are bland and somethings are just badly conceived and delivered. At these prices, the food ought to sensational. To be fair, $160 of the bill was a bottle of Champagne, but that seems like a bargain in comparison to most of the wine list!
Might try the pizza next door next time and maybe stick to water...
Mozza is located at Singapore's Marina Bay Sands.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Moving Flat, I mean, Apartment...
Well, what a week!
After a corking good night at the Katnook Estate do, we awoke to realise that we should probably get up and get a move on...quite literally! We were supposed to be moving that day...
Not that there was any massive rush to actually physically move out of the apartment as we had another few days available if needs be but, well, it seemed like the right thing to do. Even if it was Caroline's birthday.
So, by way of birthday celebration, we shifted all our stuff from one apartment to another by taxi. A journey that took approximately 1 minute as we were moving a short walk away from no. 30 to no.60! There was no way I was actually walking it 'round though - there was a 42" TV to consider.
So, for Caroline's birthday, I got a 42" TV and she got a 1 minute ride in a cab. There's a joke in there I'm sure.
In reality, I did buy her some nice gifts actually:
Bottle of Chanel perfume
Stir Fry cooking book (when in Rome...)
An iPhone cover fashioned out of leather and a single Swarovski crystal (pretty classy)
2 Riedel Champagne glasses (but no Champagne)
1 bottle of top notch Zinfandel wine (but no red wine glasses..)
Admittedly, the last 2 items were half for me at least, but it's the thought that counts.
We were up bright and early and down to our new pad with some trepidation as when we'd collected the keys the day before we were met by a bit of a nightmare. No, not the new landlord! The nightmare was a huge brown crack in the freshly painted ceiling with water pouring from it....
It had been a very wet couple of days and the upstairs neighbour's gutter had backed up so much that the whole lot was overflowing into our new living room. The upside was that we hadn't moved our brand new furniture underneath it a day or so before!
So, while work men filled the gaping holes with some bonding stuff and made good the mess, we did the sensible thing and went downstairs our 1st floor neighbour's place for some refreshment. They go by the name of Boomerang Bar! As our mate Deano would say, "livin the dream".
While sitting there wasting a few moments before our couch and other Ikea tat arrived, we sunk a jug of Birthday Shandy (that old excuse) and tucked into an Aussie Breakfast.
Strange old week really; we've gone from eating noodles 15 times a day to the extremes of Western food.
Wednesday: Australia Day burgers, bangers and pies
Friday: French Bistro style with flair
Saturday Morning : Aussie Breakfast
Saturday Evening: Mexican!
The Mexican was a bit of a mistake. Good Margarita though!
Probably not Caroline's best birthday ever....
After a corking good night at the Katnook Estate do, we awoke to realise that we should probably get up and get a move on...quite literally! We were supposed to be moving that day...
Not that there was any massive rush to actually physically move out of the apartment as we had another few days available if needs be but, well, it seemed like the right thing to do. Even if it was Caroline's birthday.
So, by way of birthday celebration, we shifted all our stuff from one apartment to another by taxi. A journey that took approximately 1 minute as we were moving a short walk away from no. 30 to no.60! There was no way I was actually walking it 'round though - there was a 42" TV to consider.
So, for Caroline's birthday, I got a 42" TV and she got a 1 minute ride in a cab. There's a joke in there I'm sure.
In reality, I did buy her some nice gifts actually:
Bottle of Chanel perfume
Stir Fry cooking book (when in Rome...)
An iPhone cover fashioned out of leather and a single Swarovski crystal (pretty classy)
2 Riedel Champagne glasses (but no Champagne)
1 bottle of top notch Zinfandel wine (but no red wine glasses..)
Admittedly, the last 2 items were half for me at least, but it's the thought that counts.
We were up bright and early and down to our new pad with some trepidation as when we'd collected the keys the day before we were met by a bit of a nightmare. No, not the new landlord! The nightmare was a huge brown crack in the freshly painted ceiling with water pouring from it....
It had been a very wet couple of days and the upstairs neighbour's gutter had backed up so much that the whole lot was overflowing into our new living room. The upside was that we hadn't moved our brand new furniture underneath it a day or so before!
So, while work men filled the gaping holes with some bonding stuff and made good the mess, we did the sensible thing and went downstairs our 1st floor neighbour's place for some refreshment. They go by the name of Boomerang Bar! As our mate Deano would say, "livin the dream".
While sitting there wasting a few moments before our couch and other Ikea tat arrived, we sunk a jug of Birthday Shandy (that old excuse) and tucked into an Aussie Breakfast.
Strange old week really; we've gone from eating noodles 15 times a day to the extremes of Western food.
Wednesday: Australia Day burgers, bangers and pies
Friday: French Bistro style with flair
Saturday Morning : Aussie Breakfast
Saturday Evening: Mexican!
The Mexican was a bit of a mistake. Good Margarita though!
Probably not Caroline's best birthday ever....
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